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In the Chinese traditional soup, Pigtail suppose help to improve the spine & potency..


Island Delights: Pigtail Soup With the Chef

By ANTHONY BOURDAIN

I HAVE become increasingly convinced over the years of a direct correlation between physical comfort and a sense of well-being and the ability to enjoy and appreciate food.

Perhaps it's the cynical professional chef in me — familiar as I am with the subtle manipulations of sound and light, the complex requirements of restaurant service, the whole show business of fine dining. For whatever reasons, the meals I seem to enjoy most these days are the ones where footwear is not required, where a pair of flip-flops, cut-offs and a clean T-shirt would be dressing up.

A case in point is St. Maarten-St. Martin, the half-Dutch, half-French island in the West Indies where I have vacationed for years. It is considered by many to be a food capital of the Caribbean.

In the French town of Marigot and in the nearby village of Grand Case, the streets are lined with all kinds of restaurants, including bistros, casual Italian, Caribbean creole and places offering fancy fine dining. Most have uniformed table service, a decent wine list and all the glassware and silver that requires. Most seem to invite, at the very least, a button-down shirt, a recent shave, shoes with laces.

After a long day at the beach, I am disinclined to endure the ministrations of a waiter, the long, ordered process of bread basket followed by drink order followed by appetizer followed by entree followed by choosing a wine followed by dessert.

In fact, my favorite place on the island is a faded old brown trailer on the Dutch side called Hilma's Windsor Castle. At Hilma's there is no sign, no menu and no tables. Four bar stools sit in front of a fold-down counter at the end of the trailer facing the Airport Road. Just inside, sitting in a plastic chair and usually wearing a sleeveless linen blouse that exposes the rose tattoo on her right shoulder, Hilma Harris chats with the locals and in-the-know expats, greeting them with a "Morning, my dear" or a "Talk to me, darlin' " before exchanging gossip and news and dispensing food, beer and a folksy combo of advice and playful insults. Read More...
The New York Times > Dining & Wine > Island Delights: Pigtail Soup With the Chef

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